Amsterdam, The Layover - A Three Day Itinerary, Pt. 1

When planning a trip to South Africa, Adam and I decided to do something we'd never done in fifteen years of travel: the layover. KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, which regularly makes Skytrax's annual best airline list, offers free stopovers in Amsterdam when booking online using their multi-city option, though we had a travel agent book our tickets for us. We'd always wanted to go to Amsterdam, so it seemed like the perfect opportunity. One upgrade to Premium Economy at check-in, and things were looking peachy!

Accommodation

1 of 2. The main room of our canal-front, two-bedroom Airbnb apartment in Amsterdam. Due to new city regulations, local owners and tenants may only rent out their home for 60 days per year. Located in De Weteringschans, Amsterdam.

Typically we like to have a little more time for a city getaway (anywhere from five days to a week), but time constraints didn’t permit us on this occasion. That meant we had to prioritize our to-do list stat. The first thing we coordinated was—of course—where to stay. Our wish list included something on a canal and in walking distance to major sites; that way, we’d save money on transportation, and car-rentals just aren’t an option in Amsterdam due to limited parking (even locals struggle and pay a premium for the privilege). We found hotels predictably pricey, so Airbnb was our next go-to. We choose a beautiful apartment overlooking the Prinsengracht canal with an eclectic vibe listed by a man named ‘Joost’, and managed by an oversight company. I’d provide a direct link if possible, but unfortunately the apartment isn’t listed year-round due to Amsterdam’s strict Airbnb policy: homes can only be listed for part of the year (60 days at the time of writing, though that’s set to change) to minimize tourist traffic and keep travel within the city enjoyable. (Anyone who’s been to Rome recently will understand the import of that last statement!)

2 of 2. The main room of our canal-front, two-bedroom Airbnb apartment in Amsterdam. Due to newcity regulations, local owners and tenants may only rent out their home for 60 days per year. Located in De Weteringschans, Amsterdam.

Planning

Next, we booked our major museum visits ahead, online—and by ahead, I mean the day we arrived to give you a time estimate. Because we travelled in spring we weren’t expecting the typical summer traffic, but it’s nice if you’re on a tight timeframe to have things set up in advance. That way you can spend less time in lines, and more enjoying the sites! Plus, Amsterdam is busier in the spring than elsewhere due to the tulip bloom, but more on that later. We used an internet vendor called Tiquets to book our tickets to the Rijksmuseum and Keukenhof (though I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it for the latter, to be explained later), whereas we booked the Van Gogh Museum directly via their website. Admittedly, this is where you may want to put some thought into your priorities before booking, as we planned a museum-heavy day for Day Two. An alternate itinerary for those who grow readily museum-weary would be to book either the Rijks or Van Gogh museum in the morning/afternoon, and then visit the Ann Frank House, Heineken Experience, or tour the Jordaan neighbourhood the rest of the day. However, with an art history buff in tow (me!), we (or should I say I) have an inordinate appetite for all things visual, and Amsterdam houses some of the world’s best art.

Bikes—as opposed to cars—parked alongside Prinsengracht canal, De Weteringschans, Amsterdam.

Getting Around

As mentioned, we made the decision beforehand to get around the city on foot and still maintain that was the right choice. The city is ideal for commuters on bikes or foot (remember, it’s medieval!) with ample side-walk space alongside canals throughout the city-centre. This turns morning and afternoon walks to and from sites into tourist activities in themselves—if you’re not from a canal-based city, its a real treat catching the sea-breeze off the water while taking in some classic Dutch architecture before ducking into a café. We only caved and took transit once after a particularly long day. Just be careful to avoid the bike paths, which are typically paved red and marked with a white, painted bike. Or, go local and bike, but be sure to read up in advance. You’ll see Amsterdammers hauling everything from groceries to paintings to whole kindergarten classes on bikes as they bolt around the city.

View of the Lijnbaansgracht canal from Reguliersgracht, De Weteringschans, Amsterdam.

A biker navigates through Vondelpark, Museumkwartier, Amsterdam.

Afternoon: Vondelpark

The first day in a new city is always a bit jarring under the effects of jet-lag, so we decided to tick an easy item off the to-do list with a trip to Vondelpark. Situated just north and west of Museumplein, the park receives over ten million visitors a year (I’ve seen twelve million quoted) due to its shady paths, meandering ponds, and general atmosphere. Spring had sprung when we arrived, so green grass, and pink and yellow blossoms were a welcome sight for wintered-out Canadians. Sunning ourselves while sipping local beer on the patio of the spaceship-shaped Blauwe Theehuis (Blue Tearoom) capped off the day nicely.

Details of Vondelpark in early spring, Museumkwartier, Amsterdam.

Eetcafé t’Pakhuis on Voetboogstraat, Burgwallen Nieuwe Zijde, Amsterdam.

Evening

After a short nap (always best to acclimate to local time as soon as possible), we headed to t’Pakhuis for dinner on the recommendation of our friendly Airbnb check-in attendant. He said the food was simple but good, reasonably priced, and that the spot was popular among locals as opposed to tourists; he particularly recommended the ribs. Right on all counts, we left stuffed and happy. My personal favourite was the bitterballen, a typical Dutch snack that’s essentially a beef croquette. (Foodies might want to insert a previously scoped out location here.)

After that, we stopped for waffles en route to the Rembrandt memorial at Rembrandtplein before heading back to the apartment to rest up for the day ahead. If you’re still amped, I’d highly recommend a stop at one of Amsterdam’s famous brown cafés (pubs)—so-called due to their wood-paneling and cigarette-stained walls from years of patrons’ smoking.

Goede reis!