Mexico City - A Walking Tour of Condesa
The start of the love lock phenomenon in bohemian Condesa, Ciudad de México.
Read any article on travel to Mexico City and you'll find Condesa listed as the place to stay. And while adjectives like 'trendy', 'bohemian', and 'hipster' are all used to describe the posh neighbourhood, like us, you may find yourself at a loss for what to expect. The adage 'a picture is worth a thousand words' holds true for a reason, and with that in mind here's a walking tour of this cozy little corner of the Cuauhtémoc Borough to help you plan your upcoming trip.
The exterior of Toco Madera and Frëims on Amsterdam, Hipódromo, Ciudad de México.
Start your visit with either breakfast or lunch on the outdoor patio at Frëims. Portions are hearty enough to keep you going for hours, and you can sip your flat white hobnobbing with the chicest Chilangos. Then, hop next door to Toco Madera to snag hot togs for the trip home minus the guilt of shopping elsewhere: handmade shoes, bags, clothing, and accessories are sustainably sourced by curatorial staff in a cultural exchange with different communities.
The internal courtyard at Frëims on Amsterdam, Hipódromo, Ciudad de México.
Graffiti wall in the internal courtyard of Frëims on Amsterdam, Hipódromo, Ciudad de México.
Overview of a walking tour through Condesa, via Parque México, Hipódromo, Ciudad de México.
From here you have two options: either take a left down Calle Amsterdam's central, tree-lined boulevard toward Ozuluama, and then circle back up through Parque México back to where you started; or, do the opposite. The resulting trip is essentially a loop, although I'd highly recommend exploring in and around the park to truly absorb the neighbourhood's laid-back vibe. Both my husband and I remarked the Spanish word 'tranquillo' (meaning quiet, peaceful, or serene) describes the park perfectly, where you'll find plenty of dog-walkers, joggers, a few skateboarders, and others taking in the subtropical greenery. The light in the park at sunset is spectacular, and you’ll find yourself spoilt for choice between photographing the art deco gems flanking its west side along Av. México, lounging in the Foro Lindberg (Lindberg Forum) at its south end, or simply people-watching on one of the park’s many benches. True art-deco aficionados should get a glimpse curb-side of the Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Jugs), featuring a nude woman modelled after Luz Jiménez, Diego Rivera’s erstwhile muse.
A photographer captures ‘golden hour’ at the Foro Lindberg in Parque México, Hipódromo, Ciudad de México.
A woman talks on her cellphone in front of Tout Chocolat, Amsterdam, Hipódromo, Ciudad de México.
Depending on your route, and how leisurely you strolled through the park, you may’ve worked up an appetite already. Clemont Helados, just off the park’s south-end, will get that ice-cream fix in-check and stave-off the heat (also mentioned here). If you’re in the mood for something more substantial, and perhaps slightly more daring, why not try one of the local food stalls—during our stay, a food truck was continuously parked at the intersection of Av. México and Av. Michoacán with a steady line-up of would-be eaters.
Artisanal ice-cream at Clemont Helados on Ozuluama, Hipódromo, Ciudad de México.
Food truck on the corner of Av. México and Av. Michoacán, Hipódromo, Ciudad de México.
Don’t skip the aforementioned walk down Calle Amsterdam, because underneath its canopy of sleepy trees you’ll really fall in love with the neighbourhood’s picturesque details. Flower stalls, chic shops, and and any-’ol-Sunday-cafés give the street an almost ‘rom-com’ flair, and you’ll find yourself daydreaming about comically bumping your ice-cream onto the chest of an ‘oh-so-perfect’ stranger (see, its a good thing you picked one up—thank me later!). Or, just fill up your camera with photos to chase away the winter-blues while scrolling on the trip home. Either way, you’ll be glad you went. ;)
¡Que disfrutes!
Want to do more in Mexico City? Check out our Top Ten and Where to Eat posts!
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Flower vendor on the corner of Amstedam and Av. Michoacán, Hipódromo, Ciudad de México.
Plants for sale on the hood of a car in Condesa, Ciudad de México.
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