Rome, The Mad Dash: What to See and Do in Two Days, Pt. 2
My husband’s cousin has a loving saying about his mom, “Wendy loves a theme,” and I must admit to having the same streak. Perhaps it comes from a childhood love of playing dress-up. Perhaps it comes from a teenaged love of fantasy books. In any case, for our second day touring Rome I definitely had a ‘theme’ in mind: all things Ancient Rome. With my head swimming with glitzy images from Hollywood blockbusters like Cleopatra, Ben-Hur, and Gladiator, I planned what I thought would be the perfect deep-dive into the glory of the Empire (my apologies to the conquered). S. P. Q. R! (Meaning Senātus Populusque Rōmānus, or the Senate and the People of Rome—look for it stamped on everything in the city, from monuments to sewer covers.) I blamed this fit of nerdiness on my Classics minor, but really, even then it’s a bit excessive. Can you be a groupie for an ancient civilization? No, I just really love a theme.
Day 2 in Rome was also the day we got rained out, as the broody pictures indicate. Not to worry though—stormy weather coincided with spectacular eating at some predetermined locations. There’s nothing quite like ducking into a warm café, shaking off the wet, and settling into a full-bodied red and hearty pasta. Plus, the rain pretty much held off for the bulk of our outdoor touring, and we had a lot that day. More’s the pity we couldn’t take photos of the Circo Massimo—by that point, it was bucketing down.
Morning: Colosseum + The Arch of Constantine
Exterior of the Colosseum, Piazza del Colosseo, 1, Roma, Italy.
Our logical, well-overdue first stop of the day was, of course, the Colosseum. Is there any more iconic symbol of Rome? I don’t think so. Even though this was our second visit to the historic amphitheatre, it did not disappoint; nor did our Roma Pass, purchased the previous day, which allowed us to breeze past others queuing for hours and be inside in about twenty minutes. This is even more impressive when you take into account that in the year we went, 2018, the Colosseum received 7.4 million visitors making it the most popular tourist attraction in the world. If you purchase the Roma Pass for no other reason, this may make it worth the price.
Construction of the Colosseum began between 70-72 CE under the Emperor Vespasian, and was completed under his son and heir Titus in 80 CE. Their family name, Flavius, is the source for the building’s other name, the Flavian Amphitheatre. The exterior of the north side of the building has three tiers of of superimposed arcades, with partial columns in the Doric (first floor, with a basic top or capital), Ionic (second floor, curlycue top), and Corinthian (third floor, think fanciful leaves) orders separating the arcades. This pattern of differing capitals for each floor is typical of Greco-Roman architecture. Above that, you can see the remains of the attic, with windows at regular intervals and Corinthian palisters—from here, the famous retractable awning (velarium) spanned inwards, towards the arena floor, sheltering spectators from sun or rain. (Anyone who’s spent the day roasting while watching a game or music festival can relate to why this might be desirable!) The triangular brick wedges at the end of each floor are nineteenth century additions for increased structural support. The remaining external wall was formally its interior, as large sections have collapsed over time in earthquakes.
Interior of the Colosseum, Piazza del Colosseo, 1, Roma, Italy.
Brick vaulting in the interior of the Colosseum, Piazza del Colosseo, 1, Roma, Italy.
To enter the building, you will be spewed—as the ancient Romans were—through one of eighty vomitoria, arched passageways that opened underneath or behind a tier of seats. These allowed audiences to enter and exit the building rapidly, like in modern-day stadiums, and yes, you guessed it, the Latin name shares a root with the English word ‘vomit’. From here you’ll see the skeletal remains of the hypogeum, a subterranean network of tunnels situated immediately below where the wooden arena floor would have stood. Animals and props were raised or lowered via elevators and pulleys to the arena from the hypogeum; and gladiators, animals, and special guests (i.e. the Emperor) entered the hypogeum from different external, underground tunnels. Recently, a stage was built at one end in a controversial public-private €25 million restoration project. Encircling the hypogeum, and radiating outwards, are what remains of the cavea, or tiered seating, which was subdivided into levels for the Emperor (seated closest), senators, equestrians, plebeians, and finally women and slaves (seated furthest). The ancient version of a ticket—a tessera, or tablet—showed what cuneus (literally ‘wedge’, or section), gradus (row), and locus (number) an attendee was seated in.
Over time the popularity of the Colosseum waxed, waned, and then waxed again. Early in its history, it played host to massive games lasting, for example, 123 straight days with 10,000 human participants and 11,000 animals under Trajan. However, by the Middle Ages it had fallen into disrepair, and was varyingly used as a cemetery, fortress, and quarry. By the nineteenth century the building’s overgrown state was a draw for Romantic poets and artists—graffiti from the era shows its popularity, even in its then dilapidated state. Don’t be tempted to add to your own initials to the mix, though; there are numerous recent examples of tourists being caught and receiving hefty fines.
The initials ‘F. C.’, along with the year 1884, carved into brick in the interior of the Colosseum, Piazza del Colosseo, 1, Roma, Italy.
The Arch of Constantine viewed from the Colosseum, Piazza del Colosseo, 1, Roma, Italy.
Immediately next to the Colosseum is the Arch of Constantine, the largest Roman triumphal arch. Hastily built between 312-315 CE to commemorate Constantine’s victory over his predecessor Maxentius, it is mashup of artistic styles given the reuse and modification of older architectural reliefs from the time of Trajan, Hadrian, and Marcus Aurelius alongside newly commissioned friezes. Consequently, there is much controversy over the arch, with some arguing it can no longer be called Constantine’s arch as the bulk dates to an earlier period, while others point to the degradation in the quality of the later reliefs as an indicator of the city’s fourth century decline. For a good example of the differences in style, you can compare the roundels dated to the time of Hadrian (though modified) versus the horizontal band beneath it.
Lunch: Burrata + Rigatone with Pork Cheek
A complimentary starter at Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina, Via dei Giubbonari, 21/22, Roma, Italy.
For our lunch stop, we’d prebooked at a Condé Nast recommendation—Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina—and of course, it lived up to its sartorial reputation. One caveat: be prepared to be surrounded by other tourists; this isn’t your typical Roman borough eatery. Add to this that, upon entry, you’re facing a massive deli counter filled with meats and cheeses on the left, and a wine rack spanning floor to ceiling to the right, and you’re beginning to get an idea of ambiance. When making reservations you’ll have a choice of seating locations: at the counter bar, in the wine cellar, in the main hall, or at a table beside the deli counter. I’d highly recommend the wine cellar (where we sat), as there’s a sense of intimacy downstairs away from the hustle of the street.
Burrata con Perle di Tartufo (burrata with black truffle pearls) at Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina, Via dei Giubbonari, 21/22, Roma, Italy.
Also, come prepared to eat—this is not the place for a light snack! Our meal started off with an unexpected (free!) starter of cheese, which we unwittingly followed up with another order of cheese—Andrian burrata—with black truffle pearls. Be ready for that ‘fresh off the vine’ experience, but with dairy; as a child, I remember looking suspiciously at all other oranges after having one off-the-branch in Florida, and this was no different. What that red, cartoon apple in children’s books is to apples, this was to cheese: informative archetype. Next, our table ordered a variety of mains, of which I’d recommend either the carbonara (spaghetti with egg and bacon, named after the Italian charcoal workers who ate it), or ‘La Gricia di Stefano’, a variant of the same but with rigatone. Like any blue-collar meal, they’ll leave you pleasantly stuffed.
‘La Gricia’ di Stefano (rigatone with pork cheek) at Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina, Via dei Giubbonari, 21/22, Roma, Italy.
Getting there isn’t especially quick from the Colosseum, as we caught the 87 bus to Rinascimento first, and then walked. But boy, was it eating done right—casual yet refined—and well worth the trip.
Route from the Colosseo metro stop to Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina. Via dei Giubbonari, 21/22, Roma, Italy.
Bike on an unknown street. Roma, Italy.
Afternoon: The Roman Forum + Circo Massimo
Next, we headed to the Roman Forum, another of Rome’s more famous attractions. Despite hosting roughly 4.5 million visitors per year, this is one site where you don’t have to fear lines! That’s because it’s a series of outdoor ruins connected by pathways people can wander freely, making for a relaxing way to pass the afternoon. Historically, the Forum Magnum, or Forum as it was known to Roman citizens, was the social, commercial, political, judicial, and religious centre of ancient Rome.
Facade of the Tempio di Antonino e Faustina, Via Sacra, Roma, Italy.
Development of the location of the Forum dates to the 7th century BCE, when the marshy area between the Palatine and Capitoline Hills was drained to accommodate the Cloaca Maxima, one of the world’s earliest sewage systems. According to tradition, Rome’s first king, Romulus, who controlled the Palatine Hill, agreed to meet his rival Titus Tatius, who held the Capitoline Hill, in the northern part of the shared valley between them to call a truce. Subsequently, an open-air market grew in the area, and overtime an increased number of civic events, like trials and political speeches, took place there.
By the Republican period, the area had been paved and several temples were erected, including the Tempio di Saturno (Temple of Saturn, 497 BCE) and the Tempio di Castore e Polluce (Temple of Castor and Pollux, 484 BCE). Rituals and animal sacrifice would be preformed at each site to bring wealth to believers. The Temple of Saturn also served as the state bank. The earliest basilicas—public buildings used for various purposes including shop space, court, and meeting halls—were built starting in 184 BCE.
View of Il Tempio di Castore e Polluce, with the ruined Basilica Giulia in the foreground. The Arch of Titus is just visible in the distance. Foro Romano, Roma, Italy.
Il Tempio di Castore e Polluce, Foro Romano, Roma, Italy.
Towards the end of the Republican period two major historical events took place in the Forum. First, Marc Antony delivered the funeral oration for Julius Caesar from the partly completed New Rostra—a speaker’s platform—inciting the attending crowd to vilify his ousters (immortalized, though in fictional form, in William Shakespeare’s Julius Caesar). Second, Caesar’s body was burned at the site of the later erected Tempio del Divo Giulio, located next to the Regia.
In Imperial times, refurbishing begun under Julius Caesar was completed by his successor, Augustus, and triumphal arches dedicated to Augustus, Titus, and Septimius Severus were built in 29 BCE, 81 CE, and 203 CE respectively. The Arch of Augustus no longer stands. The Arch of Titus commemorates his official deification (standard practice for deceased emperors) and his and his father’s victories over the Jews in Judea. The Arch of Septimius Severus still stands, but altered from its original form. One of the Emperor’s two sons—both of whom the arch was also dedicated to—had his co-ruling brother assassinated to usurp power. Afterwards, he had all images and inscriptions of his brother removed from the arch in a process called damnatio memoriae, where a person is omitted from official accounts. Finally, the Curia, or Senate house, had its last refurbishing under Diocletian.
Much like the Colosseum, the Forum fell into disuse over time as official business was relocated elsewhere. Several temples were converted into churches, making these the most well-preserved buildings; for example, the Temple of Romulus became the Basilica dei Santi Cosma e Damiano. Build up of sediment from the Tiber flooding and erosion of the surrounding hills resulted in monuments being buried, and eventually the area was designated the Campo Vaccino (‘cattle field’) for grazing animals. Excavations were begun in 1803 CE on the Arch of Septimius Severus, and have continued off and on to this day.
View of the Curia, with the ruined Basilica Emilia in the foreground. Via della Salara Vecchia, 5/6, Roma, Italy.
There are a couple of options for entering the Forum: the Via dei Fori Imperiali and the Palatine Hill entrance, down Via di San Gregorio (which is less busy). Also, there is relatively no shade you’re once inside, so on a hot day bring a bottle of water.
Immediately adjacent, you’ll find two other important ancient Roman archeological sites. The Palatino, or Palatine Hill, is a sprawling complex of ruins of what was Rome’s wealthiest and most prestigious neighbourhood. Legend has it that Romulus founded the city on the Palatine in 763 BCE, however archeological evidence suggests people lived in the area as early as the 10th century BCE. Here, you’ll find remains of the homes of Augustus and his wife Livia (the Domus Augusti and Casa di Livia), the palace and baths of Septimius Severus (the Domus Severiana and Terme di Settimio Severo), and Domitian’s vast complex, including his private quarters (Domus Augustana), a public area (Domus Flavia), and a stadio (stadium for private games and events). Head to the Severan complex for sweeping views, and the Domus Augusti/Casa di Livia for excellently preserved frescos.
Flowers along Via Palatino, Roma, Italy.
Just beyond that, the Circo Massimo, or Circus Maximus, was the historical site for chariot racing. As an important venue for ludi (public games for Roman religious festivals), at its height the 621m by 118m stadium accommodated 150,000 people. The track had shrines on either end to the goddess Murcia and minor god Consus, wooden seating that was eventually replaced with stone after numerous fires, and a central barrier with first sculpted eggs (174 BCE), and later, additional bronze dolphin-shaped (33 BCE) lap counters. Historical sources describe it as a place for a raucous good time, with shops and workshops, prostitutes , fortune tellers, preforming artists, etc.; nowadays, its a public park and concert venue.
Dinner: Cacio e Pepe
Those who know us know our resounding love of the late-chef Anthony Bourdain, so for dinner, we went deep into the archives. In his pre-Parts Unknown show, No Reservations, Bourdain wistfully downs his favourite pasta—cacio e pepe—at an outdoor table of an undisclosed restaurant. Though it seems counter to his voiceover he won’t reveal the restaurant’s location lest tourists descend, the internet’s already done so: the restaurant is Roma Sparita. While Bourdain waxes philosophical on the dish’s virtues, I’m going to rather banally describe it as a whole lotta cheesy goodness in a cheese cup. It was divine! In fact, I dare say it was our best meal of the entire trip. So much so, that in a city of amazing eats, our group throughly debated going back for a second time. We didn’t, but I bet you’ll end up doing the same thing. Do whatever will leave you with the least regrets!
Cacio e pepe at Roma Sparita, Piazza di Santa Cecilia, 24, Roma , Italy.
Buon appetito!
